The sign above a neighbourhood bar may remain unchanged, and so may the tortilla, coffee and menú del día. Behind the counter, however, Spain is undergoing a quiet handover as foreign entrepreneurs take on businesses struggling to find a successor.

The sign above a neighbourhood bar may remain unchanged, and so may the tortilla, coffee and menú del día. Behind the counter, however, Spain is undergoing a quiet handover as foreign entrepreneurs take on businesses struggling to find a successor.